One of my favorite experiences of our trip to Guadeloupe was hiking ‘La Grande Soufrière’, the active volcano on Basse-Terre. Roughly translated the name means “big sulfur outlet”. As it turns out, it was named this because the top of the volcano is covered in sulfur vents! Overall, the hike was incredibly strenuous and incredibly worthwhile.
We booked a guided tour led by an organization called Vert Intense. We made it just in time, catching the group just before they left (again, you gotta plan on traffic in a foreign country). The tour was great, the tour guide spoke both English and French, and we highly recommend using them for any adventure tour in Guadeloupe.
The Hike Up
The rainforest surrounding the volcano was amazing! The beginning of the hike was along an established trail that was made from stones. There were a lot of stairs in the beginning…. a lot. We both ended up supporting the stereotype of out of shape Americans, and ended up leading the group from the rear. Within twenty minutes we had both almost thrown up, and the guide needed to come back and find us. Fortunately by the time she did we had more or less caught our breath.
Walking with the group 
Within two minutes they were so far ahead we could no longer see them
Sidenote: Most if not all of the people in the group were from Europe, and were hiking incredibly fast. You could tell that they do hikes like this for fun, which is what we were doing, but they did it a bit more. We did notice however that almost no one stopped to take any pictures along the way, something that was surprising to us. The view and the foliage was incredible!
Because we were with an offical tour, we were able to take a shorter route to the top that was reserved for the scientists that use the seismic monitoring equipment (mapping and monitoring seismic activity). This path was about half the length of the path available to the general population, but was also twice as steep.
What is interesting about the volcano is that it seemed to contain its own climate. Around the volcano there was a significant increase in mist and rain that was not on the rest of the island. Additionally, as we got higher and the weather got wetter, the vegetation thinned out. Many of the plants on the volcano had died from the sulfur that was in the air.
The Top of the Volcano
An active sulfur vent 
Seismography equipment at the top
When we were about 20 minutes from the top of the volcano we were told to put on our gas masks. We were given gas masks at the start of the hike because the air at the top of the volcano was toxic. This was the first time that Meaghan had ever worn a gas mask, and she was not entirely fond of having to try and hike up a mountain with one, especially in the rain. It definitely added to the experience!
Near the top of the volcano we stopped by a sulfur vent. The vent was blowing out smoke, making it hard to see how far down it went. Our guide said that there was a local man that had fallen in some time ago, trying to see how deep the crater was by throwing in rocks. We kept our distance, which was easy to do with the fence.
It was like a whole new world at the top of the volcano. There were more sulfur vents, but these were blowing out yellow smoke, and the ground around them was yellow. The air that made its way into the gas masks burned our eyes, and the wind blowing tried to knock us down. We walked across the top of the volcano to to meet up with the trail used by the general population, who were not allowed to access the area we were in. We walked through dying plants and a scarred landscape, which was in and of itself an amazing experience.
In addition to the sulfur vents on the volcano, there were also a couple of active heat vents along the trail. We were able to put our hands down and feel the residual heat that was being generated far below our feet. It was a little hotter than we expected.
To top it all off, in order to get to the trail used by everyone else, we had to jump over a fence!
The Hike Down
The hike down was much easier than the hike up, and way more populated. We met other tour groups and individuals, all making their way to the top. There were even a few people running to the top, which seems impossible to me.
The views coming down the volcano were amazing, once we were able to see through the clouds. One of my favorite things about hiking is the view that you see from the top. Seeing some incredible view after you exhaust yourself climbing makes it all worth it. Catching your breath, drinking water and savoring that feeling in your chest (the one where you get to breathe, not the heart attack you feel going up), all while gazing out at an impressive landscape… it can be addicting.
To be fair, there was not a whole lot of deep breathing or water drinking at the top. Not with the gas masks and the sulfur everywhere.
The Takeaway
We want to encourage everyone to get out there and go on a hike! If you are unable to do anything strenuous, there are a number of trails that are certified by the Americans with Disabilities Act that are designed for a wheelchair to go on them. Get some trekking poles if you have any back or knee problems (they help me a ton), and take your time.
When you go and visit any place, take the time to get out and enjoy nature. Too many people only go to resorts, and too many people stay near their cars. The world is enormous, and you cannot see it all from your car!
Lastly, you may want to do more research than we did. We had no idea that you needed to wear a gas mask on this hike, and we had no idea that it was going to be as strenuous as it was! Even without the knowledge, the experience was amazing, and is a memory that we will both cherish for a lifetime.
