Badlands National Park derives its name from both the name given by the native people as well as the French trappers that experienced the area. Translated in both languages, the name means ‘bad lands’, named because of the extremely low amount of rainfall and the difficult soil. Today, the badlands are home to large herds of bison, bighorn sheep, mule deer and small mammals like prairie dogs. When you go to this park, try to picture what it was like for the early settlers that traveled out here following the American dream of owning property. Then imagine the dismay that they felt as crops died and freezing winds swept through the prairies in the winter. Only the hardiest of people survived out in the badlands, while species like bighorn sheep flourish.
1. Lazily Drive on the Badlands Loop Road
The 42 mile loop road is one of the most popular things to do in the park, largely because it is accessible via the highway on both ends. The road is more of a scenic detour than anything out of the way. Along the trail are many overlooks and trails, along with informational signage. The main loop road is paved, so there should be no issue with accessibility. While driving the road, we stopped at all of the overlooks. We saw bison, mule deer, prairie dogs, bighorn sheep and a rattlesnake along this drive, but if you really want to view wildlife take a drive on the sage creek road.
2. Camp at the Sage Creek Campground
This campground is just off of the sage creek road, roughly 12 miles from the main loop. The road is dirt, but the ride was safe. In some areas there are washboards, but if you drive the speed limit you will be fine. The campground itself is free and first come first serve. There are pit toilets on site. The grounds are home to dozens if not hundreds of prairie dogs, all of which are nearby. Our tent was less than 30 feet from one prairie dog hole, and we saw more than we could count while there. There was also evidence of bison in the area, and although we did not see them they frequent the area. In the middle of the night we woke to sounds of coyotes howling loudly, almost like they were just outside the campsite on the other side of the hill. Come early, spaces fill up quickly and you don’t want to try and set up camp right between other visitors.
3. Walk the Cliff Shelf Nature Trail
This .5 mile trail is located between the Ben Reifel visitor center and the northeast entrance. It is rate moderate but is entirely on a boardwalk. The trail encircles a large crater adjacent to a mountain that is full of plant life. According to the interpretive signs, a large boulder was detached from the side of the mountain as water eroded away softer material that held it in place. When the boulder fell, it compressed the soil where it landed, allowing more water to stay and plant life to establish. Now it is home to plants and animals, acting as a sort of oasis. Of course, this is all from memory, so some of the details may be incorrect!
4. Visit the Ben Reifel Visitor Center
Unfortunately for us, part of the visitor center was closed due to the COVID-19 pandemic. Gift shop aside, there are fantastic educational exhibits that will give you an enhanced experience during your visit. From learning about the geology of the park to seeing illustrations of the great dinosaur of the sea, the mosasaur (the Dakotas were underwater a long time ago), the exhibits were fantastic. Where we were unable to go, we peaked over the rope and saw skulls of the ancient rhinos that once inhabited the badlands, promising an amazing display of educational materials.
5. Walk the Fossil Exhibit Trail
Near the Ben Reifel visitor center, at the trailhead for the castle trail, is one of the most popular walks in the park. It is a short .25 mile boardwalk that has many interpretive signs displaying the various ancient species that inhabited the area. From three-toed horses to ancient rhinos and ammonites, there are casts of the fossils that were discovered in the badlands. Additionally, each sign indicated whether the species has gone extinct, moved away, or adapted. It is a wonderful learning opportunity for children (and adults) of all ages. It was here that I first saw that a huge portion of the country was once underwater, including the badlands!